| Introduction
Design
Stands and Blocks
Shaping
Polystyrene
Epoxy
Glassing
Hot coat
Fins
Sanding
Art Work
Gloss Coat
Leash Plug
Books
Material Lists
Resin Amounts
Equipment List
Misconceptions
Tips
Helpful Links
Click
here for companion DVD for this book
Click here for printed version of this book
This is your site. It is not biased
by any advertising and no money is accepted for any links shown.
It is made for you and supported by you.
PLEASE DONATE!
HALL OF FAME
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thanks to the users below
for keeping this site alive and unbiased with their donations.
Mark Sadler
Kevin Kuzma
Mark Griffith
Kirra Oredson
Logan Leitch
Joyce Shingler
Alex Bayer
Greg Bayer
Ian Pirsch
David Shell
Fab Ordonez
Tom Walczewski
Anthony Rynicke
Peter Young
Lori Hartline
Terence Harper
Robert J. Campbell
Thomas Gustafson
Michael Filanowski
John Gaudette
Philip Meagher
Russell Simms
Randall Kirkpatrick
Calvin Arnold
.
|
TIPS
& PROBLEMS
TIPS
When trying to figure out the best position to catch a wave, try
the following. Observe where the larger set waves are breaking,
and paddle just beyond the next large set wave. Find two objects
that line up with your position in one direction, (a rock, and a
tree etc.) and two objects that line up in another direction.
Keeping these four items lined up will fix a position within a few
feet of the same place (every time you paddle back). Note
that as the tide, wave size, and conditions change, different items
will have to be lined up. If only two objects are lined up,
you will still likely have better positioning than anybody else
in the water. This gives you a huge advantage.
When a surf spot is crowded and aggressive, the best choice is
to surf somewhere else. If staying, try the following options:
- Take advantage of the "herd" mentality (be a scavenger).
Take a position inside the furthest pack of surfers (closer to
the land). Catch the smaller set waves (be prepared to quickly
paddle out of the "impact zone" when a larger
set wave is approaching). On another, smaller wave
day, the pack would be fighting over these "inferior"
waves. When traveling to a good point break, the worst waves
there may be better than the best waves at home.
- Study the wave. Try to locate a fast section that surfers
tend to get behind on, or fall off on. Wait at the end of
this fast section.
- Get up earlier in the morning. Start paddling out at
dark, or the earliest trace of light.
- Surf later in the day, possibly after the onshore winds start
to blow, and most of the crowd has left.
- Use a board with more flotation and surface area to catch the
wave before anyone else.
- Paddle through, and just outside of, the furthest pack of surfers
at a crowded break (when a set wave is approaching). Usually,
the most aggressive surfers will follow, and paddle past - trying
to dominate the break. After they pass, paddle back near
where they were originally. They usually will not follow
until you catch a wave. Another variation of this is to
go with a partner, and take turns luring the most aggressive players
out of position.
Please...look for a less aggressive spot. My freinds and
I are happier surfers now that we surf less crowded areas.
Aggressive crowds are very likely to ruin your state of mind, and
you may start to become what you despise. Humans have an inborn
competitive drive, but we should question whether it is in our best
interest to follow that drive. It does not matter how good
a surf spot is if you can not get any waves due to crowded conditions.
Yes - there are good surf spots (even point breaks)
that are not crowded. If you read about a named spot online,
or in a surf magazine etc., or saw it in a movie, it will
very likely be crowded. Get "The Surf Report"
(949-661-5108), P.O. Box 1028 Dana Point, Ca 92629 U.S.A. These
reports are now available online at www.surfermag.com under travel.
Realize that even though these reports cover virtually the entire
surfing world, there are still many breaks that are not listed.
Look through these reports and find a spot you have never heard
of. Go exploring! Amazingly, great, un-crowded surf
can be found within walking distance of a cheap hotel.
Think about stretching, and doing pop-ups (rising quickly from
lying to standing) before going out to surf. The stretching
will lessen post surfing soreness, and reduce injuries. The
practice pop - ups will give a better start on the first rides.
It makes sense to keep in good paddling condition when not surfing.
If paddling is not possible, swimming is probably your best bet.
Paddling is the most important , and most overlooked part of surfing.
Strong paddlers will find learning to surf much easier. It
will not matter how determined, coordinated or agile a person is
if he is a poor paddler. It is simple: strong paddlers
are almost always good surfers.
When you are not sure of the exact size of your first board design,
tend to err on the large side. If you do not like it, you
can strip it, and reshape it.
Choose a wetsuit that will keep you comfortable for two hours
on the coldest average surfing days of the year. Surfers
often choose a minimal suit so it will be easier to paddle and so
performance will be enhanced. This is not a good strategy
over the length of a normal surf session (1 -2 hours). In
most areas, in general, the best surf is during the colder times
of the year. Economizing or minimizing on a wetsuit will cause
you to surf less during the best waves. Contrary to popular
opinion, for a surfer of normal weight, an inexpensive (flatlock
stitched) 3/2 mm wetsuit alone is not adequate for the coldest winter
days anywhere on the U.S. mainland. For most surfers, this
would mean choosing an inexpensive 4/3mm surfing wet suit.
Please consider the possibility of wearing a hood, gloves, and booties
- . these and a 3/2mm suit are warmer than a 4/3mm suit alone.
Triathletes know that using a thicker suit (5/3mm) made of the most
flexible neoprene, (100% ultrastrech) with sealed seams, actually
increases performance in cold water (faster swim times). Navy
hypothermia tests show that an exposed, wet head in cold water causes
hypothermia quicker than any other factor. When choosing a
wetsuit consider a windsurfing wetsuit by Neilpryde or Oneill, or
a triathlete wetsuit. These suits have nylon only on the inside,
and are smooth neoprene only, on the outside. A sealed seam,
3mm suit of this type is nearly as warm as a non sealed seam, 5mm,
two sided nylon surfing suit (on a windless day). The 3mm
suit is more flexible and lighter (especially when wet), and is
much warmer in a high wind. The two sided nylon suits are
cheaper and more durable.
Please consider one of the following options as minimal for the
southern latitudes of the U.S.mainland, (Southerrn California, Florida,
and the Gulf Coast) on the coldest days:
1. A 3/2 (inside nylon, outside smooth neoprene) wetsuit with sealed
seams and ultrastrech arms.
2. An inexpensive 4/3 suit with ultrastrech arms.
3. An inexpensive 3/2 suit (ultrastrech arms) with hood, gloves,
and booties
Fix any hole or abrasion in your wetsuit by cutting a lycra
patch (from old black rash guard). Coat the wetsuit, and the
lycra patch, with two coats of contact cement. Let them dry
completely, then press together.
According to numerous advertisers, a wet suit is designed to warm
a layer of water inside it. This is a nonsense excuse for
a leaky suit. The drier your suit stays inside, the warmer you will
be. If you want to feel what a truly warm suit is like, try
the wet/dry suits by Neilpryde.
Coppertone sport sun block, continuous spray, 30spf (and it's clones
- Nuetrogena 70spf etc.) seems clearly the best sun blocks.
Walgreens has a cheaper generic. This group of aerosol sun
blocks drys almost instantly, is not slippery, does not run in your
eyes, and applies very fast (blocks uva and uvb)
Consider wearing a hat when surfing small waves. www.oneill.com
has a hat with an attached rash guard. www.essentialsurf.com
has a Da Kine Indo Surf Hat with neck strap and neck flap.
Consider lycra running pants, and lycra biking/running shirts
in place of the very expensive surf shorts and rash guards.
The lycra pants and shirts are available at: www.zyflex.com , www.americanwave.com , and www.academy.com for less than surf shops. Try local
athletic stores which carry running supplies. The pants are
much more comfortable and flexible than surf shorts, protect the
inner leg from rash, and can be rolled up above the knee or left
long for sunburn, and skin cancer protection.
If you have problems with skin abrasion (rash) apply New Skin before
surfing. This is available as a liquid or spray, at pharmacies,
and groceries. If the abrasion persists try Super Glue (brush
type). This will stop it. Shaving the affected area can also
help. Note that Super Glue makes an excellent bandage for
cuts exposed to surfing turbulence that would tear off tape bandages.
Super Glue is being used as a substitute for sutures in hospitals.
It falls off as skin cells grow.
SOME DO'S AND DON'T'S (the result of reading thousands of emails)
Do think outside the box of conventional surfboard building.
Designing a board is a wonderful thing. It can be sculpted
to any shape desired. Maybe professional designers have some
disadvantages compared to a home builder. If about 80% of
the surfboard industry is evenly divided into two severely different
camps, yet is almost totally comprised of clones within each camp,
it seems there must be room for some other design.
Do design a board for the average rideable conditions of the home
break. Use this one board for all waves. When traveling
to surf a dramatically faster wave, which would optimally require
a different board, most surfers do not adjust well to a different
board, for a short period. When vacationing, the trip is often
over before a surfer can fully adjust to a new board, then he must
adjust again to his home board.
Do make board changes in small increments. Surfers, in general,
do not adjust well to changes of over 6" in length, 1&1/2"
in width, or 1/4" in thickness. The most likely result
of a large change is a return to the familiar.
Do resist the now widely accepted belief that a surfboard must
stay down in the wave to function properly (slightly sunken even
at full plane). This is not the optimum design for the average
surfer.
Do not read every thing possible about surfboard building on Swaylocks
(a great site for a second board), or a surfing magazine etc., then
try to sort out what to believe. The media is packed with
conflicting information. How can a first time builder know
what to believe?
Do not choose board building as a career. It is low paying,
seasonal, and monotonous. Choose another career, and build
boards as a hobby or side business.
Do try to disregard the controversies over which materials to build
with. It would be better to use the most inferior products
and have a design compatible with your weight and waves, than the
opposite. Any of the materials mentioned in this book can
make a good functional board.
Do keep it simple on your first board by doing the following:
1. Use mostly hand tools.
2. Make the rails round and the bottom and top flat - side to
side.
3. No wood stringer (if possible).
4. No artwork.
5. No gloss coat.
Do build to last. Do use more cloth than what is on standard
production boards. As oil prices, and surfboard prices, continue
to rise, so will the desire for a more durable surfboard. Consider
6oz. "E" top and bottom with a 6oz. deck patch as minimum.
4oz. "S" top and bottom with a 4 oz deck patch is an equal
minimum.
Do get your hands on the materials (foam, cloth, and resin) as
soon as possible, and practice. Surfboard building can not
be learned by only reading and listening. Many of the details
that are hard to understand will become clear only when you practice.
For instance; there is no way to explain how to shape a rail
or wrap cloth around a rail – you must get the feel of it.
Practice.
Do consider buying a premade board, especially if you want a popular
shape. The best reasons to make your own board are:
saving money, making a non conventional shape, or enjoyment of the
process. It is questionable to buy a popular shape from a
custom board building shop. Custom shops are best used for
custom designs. The popular models by Surftech, Southpoint,
and Bic are usually more durable, and often cheaper than custom
shop boards.
Do find someone you trust to point you in the right direction (maybe
to this site, maybe some other), then stick with it.
Do read, and re-read the book (if this is the site you trust),
copy it and re-read the applicable section (GLASSING etc.) just
before doing it, (this is what the people who have the best results
say they have done). Note: about 3/4 of my email questions
are already answered in the book.
I love my emails, but please do not email me if you choose to use
another source to build by. Please email the source you used.
PROBLEMS
The following will attempt to help you solve a few of the biggest
problems of surfboard building and repair, (not previously mentioned)
including: premature resin hardening, failure to add wax/styrene
surface agent, and delaminations
PREMATURE RESIN HARDENING
Probably the worst thing that could happen, when building a surfboard,
is resin gelling in the cloth before the rails are wrapped.
Do not despair. Even this can be fixed. If you are using
polyester resin, and the resin starts to gel on the cloth when you
are still saturating the flat part of the board, it is too late
to continue. Very quickly pull all gelled cloth off the blank.
Very quickly scrape all the excess resin off the blank with the
edge of a plastic squeegee, or anything with a straight sharp edge.
If the resin becomes too rubbery to scrape off, stop. Let
the resin harden, and slowly sand it down, close to the foam (it
is not necessary to completely remove it). Use #50 or #100
grit sand paper on a block, or a #150 - #220 grit disk on a drill.
If the hard resin is only in small spots, surround the resin with
a layer of duct tape to protect the bare foam.
If your resin gels too soon on a hot coat, do the following.
Stop. Mix enough extra resin to finish the hot coat.
Apply this mix to the uncoated areas to be hot coated. It
is unlikely anyone will be able to notice anything unusual about
your board due to this, although it may look very uneven at the
time. Remember, almost all the hot coat resin gets sanded
off anyway.
If your resin gels too soon on a gloss coat, do the following.
Stop. Let it harden completely. Sand it off, as if you
were sanding a hot coat. Re-gloss coat.
FAILURE TO ADD STYRENE/WAX SURFACE AGENT
The main problem caused by forgetting the surface agent is gumming
of sandpaper. Since you are using far more surface agent in
the method below, it will initially gum your sandpaper until all
the surface agent (which has wax in it) is removed. The resin
underneath will be hard, (polyester resin does not fully harden
without surface agent) but slightly less hard than it would have
been if the surface agent had been used originally. This will
gum your sandpaper a little, but nothing like sanding with no surface
agent. Fix this problem using one of the two methods below.
Method 1
Let the resin semi - harden. Tape the rails, as in HOTCOAT.
Brush on about 5 oz. (varies with board size) of pure surface agent
(styrene wax) over the newly semi - hardened resin.
Let it sit for 24 hours. Continue as in HOTCOAT and SANDING.
Method 2
If your hot coat is relatively smooth, it is possible to simply
apply the gloss coat (without sanding the hot coat). When
the gloss coat hardens, it will harden the hot coat under it.
You may then sand as in SANDING and GLOSSCOAT. If you intend
not to apply another gloss coat you must be careful not to
sand into the cloth. You may have to re-gloss areas, or the
entire board. If you sand into the cloth even slightly it
will "wick" water into the foam (brown spots will slowly
appear in polyurethane foam). .
DELAMINATIONS
Delaminations are often caused by repeated heel dents or other
similar impact damage. The result is the outer shell separating
from the foam, causing a soft spot. On extruded polystyrene
a slightly raised bubble will probably be noticeable on close inspection.
Try to fix any delaminations as soon as you notice them. They
will expand if you do nothing, and will eventually totally ruin
your surfboard.
Fix delaminations by first pressing a screwdriver etc, all around
the outside edge of the delaminated area, marking the circumference
with a pencil. Put a 5/32" drill bit in your drill, and
penetrate the delaminated area with holes (drilling about 1/4"
into the foam) every 1" in every direction (one hole for every
square inch). Erase the pencil marks. Mix up a few ounces
of ss2000 epoxy resin and hardener (not 5 minute epoxy). Draw up
about 12 cc of mixed resin with a 12cc plastic syringe body (no
needle). This will fit air tight in the 5/32" holes.
Inject no more than 1cc of mixed resin in each hole. When
it starts squirting out the adjacent hole, stop, and repeat until
all the holes are injected. Press the delaminated area down
lightly with your latex gloved hand, (until it touches the foam,
and the resin starts squirting out of all the holes). Wipe
up the excess. Put wax paper over the area, and place bricks etc.(long
end up) over the entire area. Pull the paper when the resin
hardens, and sand the excess. You will probably have to touch
up a few of the holes with more resin. If the delamination
is more than 1/3 of one side of a board, it is too far gone to be
worth fixing (in my opinion). I feel it is better to remove
all the glass and totally re-do it, or just give it up a buy a new
board. Most delaminations could be prevented by simply using
slightly more cloth in the laminate. If your board or boards
have delaminated more than once in the same area, you should use
more cloth in that area on your next board or next repair.
Many people do this repair by drilling only two holes, injecting
one hole with a large amount of resin. This method looks better,
but does not stick as well, and will likely delaminate again under
the same impact. To be almost positive that it will not delaminate
again, drill the holes deeper (all the way to the lamination on
the opposite side). In order to inject the resin use a piece
of I. V. medical tubing (luer lock size). Insert one end of
the tubing on the end of a 35cc syringe and the other end into the
bottom of the hole. Inject resin while pulling the tubing
out. If you do not use tubing, air pressure will restrict
the resin flow causing numerous refills. Cover with wax paper
and bricks as above. I have never had a board delaminate again
after repairing this way. You may not like the way this repair
looks, but remember: the better your board looks after a delamination
repair, the more likely it is to delaminate again.
If you can't get I. V. tubing, syringe body, or you have an area
larger than one square foot, do the following: Drill 3/16”
holes to the lamination on the other side. Insert (slightly over
length) dry 3/16” wooden dowels and mark correct depths with
pencil. Keep track of hole for each dowel, and cut dowels
to correct length. Drip resin in the holes, (a few drops)
then insert 3/16”" resin covered wooden dowels.
Cover with wax paper and bricks as above (2&1/2 gallon plastic
baggies filled with sand work better). Sand flush. Do not
leave any exposed wood – touch up with resin.
To make a board that is almost impossible to dent or delaminate,
consider the following: Puncture or drill the blank (before
lamination) every 2" (bottom to top) with 1/8" drill bit
or 1/8" steel rods. Make a puncture tool by first drilling
1/8” holes in a 6”x 6”x 5/8” piece of wood.
Insert 1/8”x 3 - 4” steel rods (9 rods) into holes in
wood, and epoxy in place. The holes in the punctured foam
will fill with resin when laminating, bridging the top and bottom
together. When the first lamination gels, wipe the resin,
which will drip out the opposite side of the holes. This has
been tested since 2005 - it makes the board amazingly strong, and
is how I build my personal boards now. Please do not do this in
order to reduce cloth amounts.
Delaminations are like impending death for surfboards. Please
consider using more cloth in your laminations. One extra layer
of 4oz cloth is the difference between a disposable board, and one
which will last indefinitely.
YOUR SITE
Please think of this site as your public access board building
site. It is responsive to your emails, and is not dependent
on any commercial interest. Please feel free to constructively
criticize it. There is no advertising, and nothing is received
for any links shown. The book has been totally supported for
years by my son Ian and me. We are happy to be of help to
the public. Although the site was never intended to make a
profit, it does cost to keep it running. Please help support
your site. For a twenty dollar donation (donation button in
left top column) we will send you the new companion DVD to this
book. Also your name will appear as a donor (even if it is
for 1 penny). Thank you.
[Next]
|